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Cycling - Proper Mechanics for an Easy RideKristen Markett, PT, OCSAre you ready for a new fitness routine? Why not give cycling a try? You can ride inside, outside, or even try a spinning class. How can I ride my bike and not hurt myself? Poor riding position will cause decreased efficiency, increased fatigue, lack of proper muscle recruitment, and increased stress on joints; especially knees, wrists, forearms, neck and low back.Below is a diagram of the components of a bicycle. This will be helpful tool when evaluating your bicycle and positioning. These tips are geared towards a road bicycle and will be slightly different with a mountain bike.
To determine frame size you must first look at riding position and stem height. You want the frame small enough to be responsive and tight, but big enough to cushion the ride and accommodate your upper body. A proper frame size should allow 4 to 5 inches of seat post exposed once the saddle height is correct. Top tube length should allow for body extension, while keeping the low back straight and bending from the hips. A short top tube will cause increase pressure on the low back as well as increased weight on the arms. To measure correct saddle height, and seat post, a good guideline is to have the seat about hip level when standing next to the bicycle. When on the bicycle, your knees should be slightly bent at the bottom of stroke (between 10-30 degrees). If you determine that you need to change this position by a large amount then only adjust 1/8 to 1/4 inch every 1-2 weeks to allow your body and leg muscles to adjust. To set up pedaling position: move the saddle back as far as it will go. With the pedals horizontal, drop a plumb line from the front of the kneecap. It should bisect the center of the pedal, or be 1cm behind. If you are too far in front then you may need a longer top tube. This measurement will affect the pressure on your knees. Normal seat angle usually is level or pointing upward, so that you do not increase the pressure on your arms. As a general rule, the top of the stem should be about 5 cm lower that the top of the saddle. The handlebars should be about the width of your shoulders or a little wider for comfort. The drops of curves in the handlebars should be parallel to the ground. The brake levers should be 1/2 way down the bend on the bars. When you are pedaling with your upper body extended, (your hands in the drops and your knees at the 1 and 7 o'clock position) your elbows should be 1 1/2 inches or closer to your knees. Your arms and hands need to remain relaxed and change positions frequently to avoid numbness and tingling. You should also roll your neck from side to side to prevent stiffness. MECHANICS: Concentrate on pedaling all the way around. Use your hamstrings to pull back at the bottom of the stroke. Raise heel and knee on the upstroke. This will allow for a more efficient stroke and cadence without dead spots, and prevent your quadriceps from fatiguing as quickly. When utilizing a circular stroke, it is important that your foot angle in the toe clips is natural for you, using the widest part of your foot to pedal-usually the ball of the foot. Accommodate for any toeing in/out with a rotational adjustment device. This will decrease rotation/twisting stresses to the knees and ankles. When varying terrains such as hills, move back on the saddle when climbing to recruit your larger gluteal muscles and move forward when sprinting for increased leg speed. FLEXIBILITY: As with any form of exercise, flexibility and proper positioning are important. Muscles to stress: hamstrings, quadriceps, hip flexors, gluteals, low back, neck, wrists, and forearms. Remember to stretch before and after exercise. Now that you've learned proper biomechanics and postures, you may enjoy stress free cycling! If you have any questions, or cycling related injuries, please contact us.
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